Gigalum London Review
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It’s alright, is Gigalum. A big space, all high ceilings and hard decking, you could misjudge it as cold and impersonal, but on a dank November evening its vast terrace casts a soft light towards gloomy old Clapham Common, offering sanctuary to weary sailors and sodden smokers alike.
There’s no unifying concept, no tacked-on gimmick, to bring ‘em in from all corners, and the crowd is accordingly mish-mashed; which is refreshing. On a Thursday night it feels a little like a suburban local, only with cocktails and Café del Mar instead of mean spirited quizzers and listless bar staff.
So, on the table to our left, there’s a couple of young suited types chewing the fat over a liquid dinner, while right behind us a fifty-something foursome tuck into a generous antipasti platter. A pair of bumfluffed young’uns even sneak in at one point. They don’t hang about, but you’re sure that even they would be made to feel welcome over at the bar, where a decent sprinkling of regulars gathers as the evening pans out.
It’s a good deal more cosmopolitan than any locals I ever found myself in back up north, mind, and all the better for it. Rui, the Brazilian bar manager, has been around longer than his fresh-face suggests, at most notably The Botanist in Sloane Square, and at Aquum at the other end of the Common. He’s only been here a few weeks, but he’s already got his feet under the table: a new cocktail menu is just about to be launched, and from the taster (Bacardi, cream, peanut butter and the sense that you probably shouldn’t drink it all), Gigalum’s customers are in for a very rich, very tasty treat.
It doesn’t end with the cocktails either - the drinks menu is longer than some short stories, and there’s enough rums, whiskies and vodkas on offer to put a smile on any face, or an alka-seltzer in your water tomorrow morning. There’s a decent spread of sensibly-priced new world wines to choose from as well and the Mahi Sauvignon Blanc goes down a treat – light and soft, with just enough citrus to keep things interesting.
The food is uncomplicated, modern pub grub, with half an eye on the Mediterranean, and a nod to the deep fried heart of the southern States. It’s reasonably priced, generously portioned, and smartly turned out.
We kicked off with toasted naan, a nicely textured lemon and artichoke pesto, and some olives with garlic, thyme and chillies that could’ve been sent down by the gods. The breaded calamari with sweet chilli that followed was equally impressive – If you can get all het up by a good batter, they don’t come much lighter, crispier or drier than this.
The stuffed jalapeno starter struck the only real bum note of the meal, mainly down to the unmanageably large portion. When the menu seemed to promise a handful of tiny chillies battered and plumped up by melted cheese, it was quite a shock to be served up with two angry looking peppers that looked big enough to sink a submarine. The salsa mayo was delicious, but once again, too much. My girlfriend had to rely on a helping hand from her hollow legged other half to ensure things looked respectable when our waiter did his rounds.
Having conquered the jalapenos, we steeled ourselves for the mains. My girlfriend’s grilled chicken burger was another considerable portion, crammed full of sour cream, salsa, and lashings of crisp salad. My Moroccan lamb shank was bang on the button as well: the meat fair fell off the bone, soft and unctuous, steeped in sweet apricots, tomatoes and cumin. The lemon potatoes had been sautéed to the point of crispness, and someone had had the bright idea of sprinkling toasted almonds on top – a sweet touch. More than healthy portions as well - by the time we’d finished that little lot, dessert was a dirty word.
Still – giant portions aside (and is that really a criticism?) – it’s pretty hard to fault Gigalum. It’s the kind of space that could easily spend its life waiting for the weekend to begin, but by creating a welcoming atmosphere, offering such a generous spread of drinks, and delivering a varied and attractive menu with more than a little flair, they’ve ensured that they should get their just desserts, even if we didn’t make it that far.
Ben Brill (23 11 2009)
Gigalum London Description
Gigalum is the closest thing to summer all year round. Overlooking Clapham Common and just seconds from Clapham South tube. With parasols and heaters Gigalum's front garden remains a viable propostition for outdoor drinking. The menu is available from lunchtime until late, with weekend brunches available all day alongside their Sunday roasts. On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays towarss the end of the evening, DJ's play house music as the bar fills with a stylish, unpretentious South London crowd.
Customer Reviews for Gigalum
The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of Gigalum.
“I had a party at Gigalum recently, and I must say it was the best party ever! Friendly & considerate staff made the night thoroughly enjoyable, the quality of the food was superb, then there was a DJ to add to the really lively atmosphere, I think I can safely say that both my guests and I had a fabulous time! Can't wait for another excuse to have a party there! Highly recommended, 5 out of 5 from me!”
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Alex, Tooting (4 months 12 days ago)
“I have to hand it to the people at Gigalum. Just a beautiful place. My favourite time is a couple of hours before sundown when the sunlight catches it just right.”
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Lady89, London (11 months 3 days ago)
“Wicked bar! No matter what the weather you always have a good time in the garden - mind you, looking forward to a bit of Sarth London warmth - be even better.”
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Geezer, London (3 years 3 days ago)
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