Villandry London Review
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Mine is a condition common amongst young Londoners. I don't know if we're fussy or whether this sprawling capital gives us too many options; we're spoilt for choice. Like with our love lives, it's hard to find a restaurant that's really something special.
It's not that we aren’t out there looking. We stumble upon one night stands while drunk, profess to enjoy them at the time, but inevitably wake up with a bad taste in our mouths. We rely on those hardy regulars, those 'friends with benefits', when desperate because we know exactly what's on offer without looking at the menu, but never once has it blown our minds.
I was beginning to think it was impossible to find a restaurant that would make me giddy, one that I'd rave about to my friends, and, honour of honours, introduce to my mum. Then, out of the blue, it happened and, reader, I think I'm in love.
Villandry - a bistro-cum-deli on Great Portland Street - was intoxicating from the start. Like most things I fall for, Villandry's overall look was rather odd but certainly interesting. We passed through the fashionable deli to reach the elegant dining room where my guest and I were seated. It felt surprisingly intimate thanks to the mellow spotlights planted in thick tree trunks that hung from the ceiling.
Our table was next to a floor-to-ceiling window, granting us the chance to spy on envious passers-by. Honestly, though, we envied those seated in the nook round the corner, where giant tumbleweed lampshades cast beautifully eerie woodland shadows on the walls. Soft jazz set a relaxed mood as we perused the menu.
It was small, uncomplicated but also tempting, making it hard to choose between the classic French offerings and more contemporary dishes. The celery served as part of my crudites with a hot anchovy dip had seen better days but the rest of the crunchy rainbow of the veg made up for it. The thick and moreish dip was served in a quirky miniature saucepan and kept warm over a tealight, winning extra points from me.
For mains, I ordered the soft and masterfully cooked cod with sauteed spinach and rich saffron sauce. This being a French restaurant, I decided on a side of nicely seasoned fries. Yes, I do realise that I'd somehow managed to order fish and chips, but it was unrecognisable from what's on offer at your local Codfather and my side order of sweet, juicy cumin and honey roasted Chantenay carrots were in a different league to mushy peas.
Across the table my guest had gone for a more traditional charcuterie platter and cassoulet of duck confit which he reported was well sourced, simple but hugely satisfying. If you think I am gushing now, you should have seen me close to tears when I couldn't finish my sticky, syrupy banana tarte tatin.
Attractive decor and delicious food are all well and good but there is another factor that can make or break a dining experience. Luckily for Villandry, the staff were excellent at their jobs and thoughtful too. They noticed our wobbly table and fixed it without fuss and had our coats waiting for us as we left. To achieve that level of service without being cloying is rare and admirable (needy is never attractive, whether we're talking waiters or lovers).
If you're still not sure that Villandry is all that special look at my use of adjectives: intoxicating, attractive, interesting, quirky, thoughtful...is it any wonder I came away from the evening with my head swimming? It was only the fear of being asked to leave that stopped me ruffling the white linen tablecloth and consummating the relationship right then and there.
Villandry is not perfect of course. The tables are a bit close together, vegetarian suitors might want to look elsewhere, and upon entering the heavily perfumed toilets I was gifted with the knowledge of what it must be like to be beaten half to death by a bunch of forecourt hydrangeas. These small points are easily forgiven. After all, love means never having to say you're sorry.
Kate Williams (06 02 2010)
Villandry London Description
Villandry originally opened 14 years ago in Marylebone High Street and relocated to its current, larger premises in Great Portland Street in November 1997. The food store, restaurant and bar (added in July 2000) which comprise Villandry are now owned by Martha Greene and a group of private investors. Martha actively manages the business day-to-day, with head chef Steve Evenett Watts, who has been with Villandry for nearly four years. They collaborate with food buyer Laura Salas Ortiz, who has been with Villandry for 13 years, to create Villandry's relaxed, European style-ambience. Angus, their head baker, leads a team of dedicated experts, who bake some of the best bread in London.
Villandry concentrates on seasonal produce and interesting gourmet comestibles. The 100 seat restaurant and 40 seat bar are also available for exclusive private hire.
Restaurant
The Villandry 100 seat restaurant is run by head chef Sara Berg, under executive chef Steve Evenett-Watts. The fresh food is produced without fuss and particular attention is paid to the quality of the ingredients. Its relaxed, European-style ambience continues to woo people from all over London keen to try delicious, complex flavours in Villandry's seasonal and simple cooking. The Restaurant menu changes twice daily - for lunch and dinner.
The restaurant can be hired for big parties.
Restaurant opening times:
12pm-3pm Monday-Saturday
6pm-10:30pm (last orders) Monday-Saturday
11:30am-4pm Sunday
Bar
For full meals, eat in the Restaurant. For breakfasting, light lunching, snacking, chatting, sipping, gossiping and meeting from morning until night, the Bar is ideal. From 8am you can enjoy boiled eggs with soldiers, Scottish smoked kippers or some Villandry granola and fruit salad. If you are feeling continental why not have a pain-au-chocolat from the Bakery or some French toast with maple syrup.
For lunch you can choose from the weekly changing menu some of our North African inspired mezze. Average prices are £8. Bar snacks are available in the early evening, with charcuterie and cheese plates available from the deli in the shop.
Bar opening times:
Monday-Friday 8am-11pm
Saturday 9am-9pm
Sunday-Closed
Customer Reviews for Villandry
The following customer reviews are not endorsed by Fluid London and are simply those of users who wish to publish their independent experiences of Villandry.
“Everything we ordered was spot on and the staff were helpful and really nice. Manages to be high quality without being stuffy. Will definitely come again.”
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Tracy, London (1 months 10 days ago)
“Ordinary with a capital O.
Menu uninspiring, food bland, service terrible, toilets ok, wine list ok. Mandatory 12.5% service charge. We felt robbed when the bill arrived.”
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B Peach, London (2 years 4 months 29 days ago)
“the jazz night at Villandry is pretty cool, laid back trio play throughout the night, great value menu £20 and the beers not bad too”
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Ron, London (3 years 11 months 1 days ago)
“This place was so dire. It tok forever to receive our first drinks and then when our snacks arrived (lamb kofta) it was so raw we had to send them back. Then the waitress took away our drinks before we were finished. Our experience, combined with the complaints coming from the surrounding tables, means I will never go back. ”
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Jane, london (4 years 11 days ago)
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